I’m all out of order (and sorts) lately so forgive me for the jumbled chronology of posts.
Back in January for Milan mens fashion week, Trussardi held a presentation of its fall-winter designs inside one of Milan’s classic art institutions, the Pinacoteca di Brera. Trussardi is (another) historic, family-run Milanese house known for leather goods, accessories, ready to wear, and its greyhound dog’s head silhouette logo.
I’ve come to know the brand through my friend Alessandro Sicoli, who does PR for the company after stints at Dolce & Gabbana and Italia Independent.
A presentation was organized, rather than a runway show, which is a choice many designers and brands make for various reasons—better intimacy, less formality. Names like Tod’s, Z Zegna, Bally, and Brunello Cucinelli do the same.
Trussardi dressed musicians as they would models in their newest designs. While in various vignettes together or individually, they played relaxed, gently harmonies from basses, guitars, and a piano, while attendees gazed on.
There was a vocalist there with the loveliest sound and charisma you don’t find in runway.
Of course, they all looked great too. There were fine knit fabrics, muted tonal prints, suede Chelsea boots, and an abundance of soft, John Mayer-esque sex appeal.
My own impression of the brand was neutral ahead of January 18—the brand’s flagship store on Piazza della Scala feels like a cross between MaxMara and Michael Kors. Trussardi is in transition however, looking to build an international reputation for more than high street appeal. Its annual revenue is less than €200 million, two thirds the level of Prada Group’s Miu Miu brand.
After exploring these latest mens’ looks, I feel the house’s creative director Gaia Trussardi is heading in a direction not dissimilar to that of John Varvatos, albeit with softer strumming of the rock n’ roll aesthetic, and a commitment to made in Italy that the American designer has long abandoned.
Choosing the Pinacoteca was smart, as it meshed classical with modern and left plenty of space to mingle, whisper, and snap photos without disturbing the playing or singing.
As it was my first official Milan fashion week experience, it was special, and I’m grateful to my friend for inviting me! Enjoy the pics…